Fuli pictures

Fuli is a little town near Yangshuo that is well known for painted fans and scrolls.  We weren’t really interested in buying scrolls or fans, but it was an interesting half day trip.  Seeing life in a smaller Chinese town was much more interesting than the fans.

Bike-cart in an out of the way alley

Gate into the courtyard of a house

Oxen (cows?) grazing while people clean vegetables in the river.

More vegetable washing in the river.

The girls next to a cool alley doorway.

The Revolution lives on in a local school courtyard.

Fans waiting to be painted.

Staring

There is one thing I neglected to mention in that last post.  Walking around the night market last night, I remembered.  I shouldn’t make it sound like I just ignore the staring/looking all the time.  When people are just curious or interested, I smile and say hello.  But, when I am feeling particularly annoyed or if I think the starers are being especially rude, I make a point of staring right back at them until they feel so uncomfortable they look away or stop talking about us.

I know there is less stigma around staring in China, so I feel like it is fair play to stare right back.

For example, last night our family was obviously the topic of conversation of a group of four Chinese men who were looking at the girls, looking at Mr. A and I and discussing us in great detail right where we could hear them.  Then the kept looking and looking at L.

The girls weren’t noticing because they were looking at someone selling some dumb tchotchke crap. The whole time the men were staring and talking about us, I stood there staring at them.

They kept looking at me like they expected me to look away, but until they moved away and stopped looking at my kids, I just stood there impassively staring right back at them.  It clearly made them uncomfortable, which was my intention, I guess.

It is actually harder to do than it sounds.  When people give me that look to let me know I am making them uncomfortable, it is natural to look away.  But if they aren’t going to acknowledge making us uncomfortable, then I don’t care if I make  them uncomfortable.

It takes a LOT of reverse staring to make a Chinese person feel uncomfortable.  When we were in an arcade in Shanghai, there were two countryside men who walked right up next to M and stared at her, with the slightest effort to pretend they were looking at her game.  I turned right around and stared at them the whole time they were looking at her.  They kept giving me sidelong glances, obviously getting more and more uncomfortable, but they couldn’t seem to tear themselves away from staring at her.  Finally,  I was annoyed enough that I said “Ni Hao!” in an uber-perky voice and that seemed to break the spell and they scurried away.

At the same arcade, a girl who was about 9 years old walked within a foot of me and just stared and stared at my face.  Her mom was right there and let her do it.  I got the feeling neither of them really thought I was a human with feelings (it felt like I was a zoo animal!).  I said ni hao to her too and she suddenly looked very embarrassed and ran away.

The staring/looking has been a great opportunity to talk to M about homogeneous cultures and differences, but that is a post for another day.

What is it like?

We have been in China for about two weeks now.  Mr. A and I have been to a number of the places we visited before, so the stuff in China hasn’t been too thrilling, but there are still some things that have taken me by surprise.

I was hoping the girls would enthusiastically practice their Chinese.  Shockingly, L (who is a very reluctant Chinese student at home) has been trying to use Chinese left and right.  More often with us than with Chinese people we meet, but she is even trying to string together some sentences.  Yesterday she said “Wo hao chi! Wo hen hao chi!” which isn’t exactly grammatically correct, but her meaning was understood.  (Meaning being I like to eat this! Yum!)

On the other end of the spectrum is M, who actually has decent elementary Chinese comprehension.  She wouldn’t speak at all the first two weeks because she realized how little Chinese she actually knows and she can’t put together what she really wants to say.  She is a perfectionist in general and apparently Chinese is no exception.  She is embarrassed to try and make mistakes.  In the last couple days, she has ventured a few test uses of Chinese which were well received by locals, so she is maybe warming up a little.

When we are out and about as a family, we garner little attention (in the select environments of Beijing, Shanghai and half-foreigner Yangshuo).  When we are out as a family, some people will check us out and then look closely at the girls.  M is clearly mixed, but L confuses the heck out of people.  People will point and say “M looks like Mrs. and L looks Chinese!” , but that doesn’t happen too often.  It happens much less than I expected.

In addition to the comparison between L and M issue, L also gets the most attention because:

A) chinese people really like little kids and are very kind to them

B) L is very cute, especially when bundled up in a hundred layers of clothing in the cold and

C) she speaks english which they seem to find adorable and highly amusing.

People especially like it when she is throwing a bit of a snit.  Stomping and yelling in english is apparently the cutest thing people have ever seen in their entire lives.  (Honestly, I think tiny kids speaking other languages are also pretty adorable so I can understand that feeling.  And to defend L who rarely throws fits in public at home, she is much more likely to be hungry/tired/overstimulated here because we are out so much.  And also, she is four.)

When just L and I are out, oh, the gawking.  One guy almost wrecked his moped trying to figure us out.   People can’t help but ask if L is Chinese if only I am with her.  On two different occasions, I tested telling people that L was adopted (Ta shi lingyangde haizi) and I did not like the response.  Both times, it led to much whispering, pointing and discussion with other bystanders.  It also led to many pitying looks for L, nasty comments about countryside people and thanking us for adopting her.  I tried to do a little education, but it was barely worth the effort.  The whole scene was very awkward and not something I want to repeat, if possible.  Especially not when L is within earshot.

I am now following Mr. A’s tactic of pretending we don’t notice that they are noticing.  If out alone with L, I will say in Chinese “Her father is Chinese. ”  Actually, I say “my husband is overseas chinese” which is not a phrase L can understand (wode xiansheng shi meiji huaren) . Better that little white lie than subjecting L to more weirdness about adopted kids.

Certainly, sometimes people who don’t ask must  guess that L is adopted or wonder about the crazy genetics in which a laowai would spit out a totally Chinese looking kid, but beyond mentioning that the girls look like different parents we haven’t had much of an issue about it.   If they figure out she is adopted, they probably assume we are handling it the Chinese way and would never admit it out loud or to strangers anyway.

One exception was a very nice ayi at a store in Yangshuo.  We were looking to buy slippers for each of us and she took a special shine to L.  She kept bringing her more and more slippers to try and L was stubbornly refusing to like the ones that fit her feet.  She was making stubborn faces and refusing the slippers and the ayi was saying how cute she was.  Then she turned to us and said, “Thank you so much for adopting her.  I am so happy she has a family.”  She did the prayer hands at us and fawned over L some more.  Then she hugged and kissed M and told her she was very pretty too.   (And then she went on to discuss the fact that M has an unfortunate foreigner nose, which M fortunately didn’t hear!)

L has noticed people looking at her from time to time.  She will say “Why is everyone looking at me?!?” and “STOP LOOKING AT ME!”   But usually, this happens when she is being saucy and they are looking at her because she is creating a bit of a scene as much as anything else.  Maybe she has noticed some lingering glances when she isn’t pissed off and is venting then too.

I have tried to have a conversation a few times here with L, explaining that people notice that she looks Chinese while I do not because she was adopted from China and didn’t grow in my tummy (her words, despite my repeated attempts to get her to say uterus).  She seems completely uninterested in the whole idea of me not looking Chinese or the fact that Chinese people have an ethnic look or that *she* looks Chinese.  I really thought seeing all these Chinese people in China would help her have some comprehension about it, but so far, no go.

M, on the other hand, is disappointed to not be garnering more attention.  When we were last in China, she was 4 (the age L is now) and she was the star of the show.  Now that she is older, people don’t seem to be so interested or think she is so cute.  She is a little jealous that people are more likely to fawn over L.

I know this is not the most coherent post and it might sound like I am trying to sweep the issue under the rug, but the fact is it is a mixed bag.  I am doing my best to read the girls’ concerns over the attention we do get, but for the most part, I think no one is suffering too much so far.

Picture Post

We finally have a decent internet connection, so I am going to upload a bunch of pictures from the whole trip. We have other pics of these same places on the other camera, but I am going to do that card later.

It took M about five minutes to adopt the “Chinese Peace Fingers” once we got to China.   This was at TianTan (I think that is the Temple of Heaven in english?)

This is the view of some lakes in Beijing from the top of the Drum/Bell tower.  You can see tons of people ice skating and chair ice skating on the ice.

These are the drummers in the drum/bell tower.  I wish we had brought the video camera because their drumming was really cool.

We went on a hutong (alley houses) pedicab tour near the Drum Tower.  Our driver had a guy who would let us go inside his hutong house.  These are the really cool windows that let in tons of light.  The only drawback of the hutongs was they don’t have indoor plumbing. Residents use public bathrooms and showers.  We were shown the outside of the hutongs where both Mao and Chain*g K*ai-S*hek lived.

This old lady was selling these glasses with nose-blowers at the summer palace.  We didn’t buy one but we thought they were awesome.

This is the view from the top of a tower at the summer palace.

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This is the crazy “sightseeing tunnel” light show in Shanghai.

This is an ad for a hotel clearly marketing itself to Chinese tourists in Yangshuo.  I don’t know if you can see it, but the crux of the advertising campaign is a dead goat being roast on an open fire.

Near our first hotel in Yangshuo.  We just hiked up a random road and this was the breathtaking view. I am sure you will see this photo or one very similar on our Xmas card this year.  Pretend you haven’t seen it before.


Oops Yangshuo Did It Again…

When we were in China for L’s adoption, M, Mr. A and I traveled to Yangshuo Guangxi.   It is so very beautiful, I had high hopes for it being my favorite place in China.  Sadly, the very opposite was true.

I thought we should try it again because I was jetlagged and culture shocking in a bad way on that trip.  But wouldn’t you know, so far, things are a bit disastrous this time too.

The biggest problem is the choice I made for our hotel.  I thought the problem the last time was due to the noise and crowds in the town of Yangshuo and this could be rectified by staying outside the town.  So we found a rural hotel with amazing views, but still close-ish on the map.

Unfortunately, rural means no taxies and  close-ish on the map means a 30 minute walk to a sketchy looking ferry across the river, then another 15 minutes walking to town.  L only has about 3 hours of walking in her each day (which is a lot for a 4 year old, I think) and to waste 45 of those minutes just seems like a bad idea.   I should also mention the road we walk down is very muddy and manure-y, which isn’t such a problem on a dry day, but we are scheduled for rain.  We would basically be housebound.

It was a strategic miscalculation.  If it were just Mr. A and myself, it would be fine.  With M, it would be difficult.  With L, it is not workable.

Mr. A is out finding a new hotel for us right now, so tonight we will move.  It really sucks because the staff at this hotel are all incredibly nice.

Pictures in a later post because Mr. A has the camera in his bag.