Death rituals in Taiwan

One more quick Taiwan post while I am stuck at the airport.

One of the very important things Mr. A wanted to accomplish in Taiwan was visiting his ancestors’ graves.  He wanted to go to his maternal grandmother’s grave (who he knew personally) as well as visiting his paternal grandparents’ grave.   Well, I am saying “grave” but there is no grave, at least not any more.

Learning about death rituals was one of the more interesting things that happened in Taiwan.   When someone dies, traditionally they are buried in a grave like this:

The graveyard we visited was crazy overgrown.  Mr. A’s uncle said that every year before the grave sweeping ceremony day, the government comes and burns down all the weeds so people can get to the grave and clean it together with their families.  They have to do it together so no one is being sneaky and getting extra blessings.

You can see similar grave dotting the hillsides in Taiwan and China.  There is a half circle thing with a mound on top.  The casket they are in is made of wood and it has a hole drilled in it to facilitate the decomposition of the flesh.

After 10 years, all the meat is gone and then they crack open the casket and then they remove the bones.  (I found this quite shocking!)  This is what the casket looks like after 10 years.  Pretty decomposed.

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This is a random tomb in a  graveyard, not Mr. A’s family’s grave. I asked his uncle why they just left it there and he said Chinese people are dirty by nature and they don’t clean up after themselves. (More on that in a later post, if I remember.)

They take the bones out and then traditionally, they would put them in a big urn and bury them again.  Maybe in the same grave.  This is a traditional urn that was once used, but was abandoned now.

Now, more often people put the bones into government-sponsored mortuaries or whatever you would call them. The above graves can now be reused by someone else, I guess, because graveyard space in Taiwan is at premium.  (The bones from this urn were probably moved to a high-rise mortuary, speculated Mr. A’s uncle.)

We visited two of these high rise mortuaries. At one, you use a credit card thing to pull up the right dead person’s image.  At the other, we used an assigned number Mr. A’s dad gave us.

It pulls up pictures of the dead people.  In this case, this is a granfather and his two wives.

Then, you take incense and ask for the blessing of the buddha who watches over the dead people.  Then you give an incense/pray to the gods of Prosperity, Longevity and Wealth  (or at the other one, the God of the Earth).   Then you do your ancestor worship with another stick of incense.\

It was unclear to me exactly what I was supposed to be praying or asking for, but it was a nice ritual nevertheless.  You can also give an offering of food to the ancestors to eat  or spirit money while you are there.

I think these boxes are where the bones are stored.


Home

After 7 long weeks, we are finally going home.

We have had our ups and downs.   We learned a lot.  Mostly, though, I think we have learned that we can spend so much time together without going crazy.  There is no one I would have rather shared this experience with.

It has been a good trip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HNY0rx2fw4

Taiwan Pictures

Random pictures from our time in Taiwan:

Floats from the Taipei Lantern Festival

Another Lantern Festival float.  Note the large cup of bubble tea.

The best bowl of niu rou mian I had on the trip.  From the Taiwan Train station 2F at Green Onion.  YUM.

The mascot for the Taipei 101 building.  I get that it’s eyes and mouth say 101, but why is it called Damper Baby?  Mysterious Taiwan, that is why.

The girls with Ed/Steve at the Taipei effing Flower Show.

Flower Show weirdness.

Mr. A under the New Year’s rabbit at a temple.  Supposedly he was praying for longevity, prosperity and fortune, but my guess is he was focusing the most on fortune. Heh.

Toasting the oldest Aunties and Uncles at the family banquet.
Street where MIL grew up.  These aren’t the original buildings, though, they were mostly rebuilt after a big earthquake 13 years ago.
In honor of my birthday, the children insisted I risk my life by riding this deathcab over Sun Moon Lake.  Fortunately, we survived.  Gah.

Taiwan Observations

It is good that I am not a professional travel blogger because traveling with kids is exhausting. By the end of the day, all I want to do is watch Twilight on my IPOD and wait for the internet on the otherside of the world to wake up so I can see something new on Twitter.

Traveling and the accompanying exhaustion also incites many arguments with one’s co-parent/adult travel partner, especially over stupid things like who is always walking 20 feet ahead and leaving the other parent to manage two kids who finally figured out that poking and prodding each other until someone gets hurt is hilariously funny…until someone cries and it is not.  (In the interest of fairness to people who don’t write on this blog and can’t defend him or herself online, I will leave it to your imagination to figure out exactly who might have been left managing the unruly children.)

I will come back and talk more about the family stuff in Taiwan later  MIL etc.), but for now, here is a rundown of some important things I have learned about Taiwan during our two weeks here:

-Taiwan is Mysterious. It has been a long time since I have been in a place where I have absolutely no clue what is  going on so very often.  There is very little English signage here (it seems almost as likely to find Japanese as the 2nd language of choice) and people do things for reasons we can’t determine.   One day, there were people outside the Shin Kong Mitsukoshi store licking  a giant artificial man with numerous professional TV crews recording them.  Why?  Who knows??  There was one store that had no prices on any of the Japanese stuff in the store.  How much did stuff cost?  The hell if I could figure it out.  (Actually, I eventually figured it out on my 3rd visit. It was Daiso, what seemed to be a Taiwanese equivalent of a $.99 store. Everything cost 39 Tiawan dollars).   We have a fancy toilet seat in our hotel room, but we can’t try it out because I can’t figure out the buttons. (Sad panda.)  There was a weird smell outside our hotel and we tried for days to determine if it was a dumpster or a stinky tofu shop, but we never figured it out.  We have seen no less than 8 people following squirrels around, taking their pictures for LONG periods of time, in several cities.  Why?  What is so photogenic about squirrels?  Mysterious.

-People in Taiwan love free stuff.  Nothing is more exciting than a free buffet with a meal.  In fact, many people will not eat the meal but will box it up and take it home and only eat the buffet.  Some people are so well-versed in this process they bring their own tiffin containers to take food out with them.  In the past, I have wanted to die of embarrassment when my inlaws stuffed their pockets with  food, but now I see maybe isn’t just them.  It might just be a cultural thing.

The love of free stuff is widely accepted and a variety of stores give out coupons or stickers that can be redeemed for prizes or other free stuff.  7-11 has some kind of little stamps that come with your receipt.  There is also some thing where you could redeem receipts from local stores for a free rabbit lantern at the lantern festival in addition to the one rabbit lantern allocated for each person willing to stand in line at the designated distribution time.  My MIL had three lanterns by the time we met up with her.

-People in Taiwan know how to stand in line patiently. No really, lines are not a problem here.  Getting on the subway, the lines on the floor indicated that people should stand two abreast, diagonally from the car entrance and that is EXACTLY WHAT THEY DID.  To get on the HSR, the line was painted showing that there should be one line perpendicular to the entrance that doubled back around to a 2 deep line (hard to explain, but a complicated line structure) and they stood that way and then FOLLOWED THE LINES to snake their way into the entrance.  We thought we had died and gone to orderly line heaven.  There was no shoving, not jostling, nothing remotely unpleasant about entering very, very crowded subway cars.

-If there is something free, Taiwanese people will stand patiently in line…possibly for days. When we were visiting the Sun Yat Sen memorial, we noticed that the entire fenceline around the park was surrounded by a long queue of people.  Old people, young people, school groups, a large group of disabled adults….hundreds or maybe even thousands of people just waiting.  And on the fence there was a sign that said “Wait here” in English (it said more in Chinese, but Mr. A can’t read).

“Wait for what?”  we wondered, familiar already with the sensation that we were in Mysterious Taiwan.  So we walked up the line.  We walked up around a corner and there were still more people patiently waiting.  We walked another block or so and finally got the the front where we realized the line was for the FREE RABBIT PAPER LANTERNS (pink rabbit on that link) at the lantern festival.  They distributed a set number each day at 2:00.   It was 1:10 and already hundreds and hundreds of people were sitting there in line for a free lantern.

I mean, they were cute but it was only a little thing made of cardstock with a tiny lightbulb inside.  No way I was going to wait in line for even 10 minutes for that thing.  That is a level of commitment to free stuff that is beyond my understanding.

(I should also mention that one of the highlights of L’s entire trip was an opportunistic college band who were unofficially entertaining the crowd waiting for their free lanterns.  Their female singer sang BaoBei which L listens to DAILY and happens to be her favorite song in the entire world.  We were walking by and she heard the first guitar riff and froze in her tracks.  She was mesmerized by hearing it live.  It was a nice moment.)

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There is more I need to write to catch up about Taiwan, but for tonight that will have to do.  Stay tuned for a fascinating post about what the Taiwanese do with dead bodies  (No, I didn’t see any, nor do I have pics of dead bodies this time.).

How To Search for Birthparents in China

I know that many adoptive parents reading this (and some day adoptees) want to know how we found L’s birth family.  There is a limit to how much information I can share because I have relationships and people to protect.  I don’t know what bad things (if anything) might happen if I share too much, but I like to err on the side of less is more.

The other thing I want to assure you is this: What I am not sharing doesn’t matter to YOU or YOUR search.  The steps our contact used to locate L’s family are specific to L’s particular circumstances.  I guarantee you 1) your circumstances are very different  and 2) even if they seem similar on the surface, odds are that each successful search will have to follow its’ own course.

There was nothing predictable about the way our search played out.  Annoying, but true.

A long time ago, I wrote a post about searching HERE.  I just reread it and thought, “Wow, AmFam, if you had followed your own advice this would have been a much less stressful process!”  Rereading it today, I also thought that I was mostly right.  So go there and READ MY ADVICE, then come back and read the additional information I can share today as a success story.

Also, if you aren’t sure if you are ready to search, please read “So You Think You Want To Search“.  I just reread it and agreed with myself again, so obviously you should listen to me. (joking, just joking!)

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Learn from my success (and failures)

Things I would add to that previous post about searching.

-If I were writing it today, I would advise against following a single thread.  Unless you have solid leads, you are wasting very valuable time.  If you can, pursue multiple angles at once.

-In the past year, there has been a virtual explosion in the cottage industry of birthparent searching in China.  And by an explosion, I mean to say the field of “professional searchers” has expanded from zero to three known people who will search (or do some legwork related to searching) for money.   From what I know about the methods of each of these three individuals (none of whom I can or will vouch for), it is extremely unlikely that their methods would have been at all useful in locating L’s family.  That doesn’t mean that their methods won’t work for YOU, but they almost certainly wouldn’t have worked for us.  From what I have heard (from people I know personally working with each of them) methods include posters, media campaigns, internet registries, sending people to talk to foster parents or other local contacts, etc. I can imagine circumstances in which these tactics would work, but they would not have worked for us (though we couldn’t have known that until we actually met L’s family and learned more of their story).

-The success of our search was completely determined by the tenacity of several local contacts.  And by local, I mean local local.  Not just from the same province.

-In one case, the local contact only helped us because I had nurtured that relationship off and on for YEARS with no expectation or hope of that person agreeing to help us search.  Actually, their offer of help was totally a unexpected.  I also invested a lot of energy into educating my contacts about WHY we wanted this information and how we thought it was in L’s best interest to not only know her story but to also know her family.  I think it finally sank in.

-There are a number of ways to make a local contact, but for me, the internet and a talking to a friend of a friend who happened to be from the same area were crucial.

-There were clues in L’s paperwork.  Nothing obvious, but inconsistencies and illogical information is definitely noteworthy.  For example, we know for a fact that L was never “found” at her finding location.  We found tiny bit of info in her paperwork that helped us confirm our suspicions and then we sent someone to the finding location to see if there was any evidence of an abandoned baby there.  No one anywhere nearby had heard anything about a baby.  In a small town, that says a lot.   And while she wasn’t “found” there, she definitely had a connection to that location which was hugely important.  When I was visiting the area this trip, I visited a friend’s child’s finding location with my guide and found someone who vaguely remembered hearing that someone found a baby in that area.  To me, that points toward the truthfulness of that child’s information.  It isn’t certain, but it gives a direction to follow.  I had also visited other finding locations when we traveled to adopt L and found people who remembered one of the babies.  To me, these two clues (plus the success of our search) would point toward at least some honesty in the paperwork from L’s orphanage.  If I were another family searching from the same area, I would take note.  On the other hand, if I found evidence that other families had obviously falsified information, I would also keep that information in mind.

-That brings me to another bit of advice:  Research your child’s orphanage.  Many orphanages post finding ads on the internet, or rather the papers they post them in do.  You can find them by putting the orphanage’s name (in chinese!) into Baidu and Google.  Find one set of ads and you can use the format to go backwards by changing the dates (I use month and year changes and it works great.)  I have  every finding ad (without pictures) from L’s orphanage since her adoption.  I confirmed that information with an outside source (who does not expect money in exchange for information), so I know my information is accurate.  From that, I created a map of finding locations that gave me a good idea of where I should search if I had to do it on foot.  By collecting this information, I knew that some information given to me by someone else was somewhat accurate and somewhat inaccurate.

-Ask questions, but VERIFY INDEPENDENTLY if possible.  There are a people out there claiming to be “experts”.  Odds are they don’t your child’s story.  Just like in every other country on the planet there are a variety of reasons why a family/mother might not be able or willing to raise a child.  Patterns are not reliable when you are talking about real live people living real life lives.  Increased chances, yes.  Sure things? Nope.  If you are basing your search on a pattern but not on the actual information in front of you, you might miss the tree for the forest.

-You have to TRUST your contact.  This is your representative in China.  This person has your child’s information and can use it as he/she wishes.  Never give anyone all the information. You need to be able to verify the truth of the story.  You need to be able to talk to your searcher/contact about what you are comfortable with.  Also, you need to be cognizant of what YOUR CONTACT is comfortable with.  Our contact was slow, but meticulous.  When our timeline for traveling to China was short, I think it was the threat of a media campaign or poster campaign that got a much faster result than we would have otherwise.  Our contact was afraid the family would never come forward if things were so public. We shared those concerns (as well as concerns about L’s privacy), but our window of opportunity was shrinking rapidly.

-DO NOT let someone poke around if you don’t TRUST them to keep your wishes for confidentiality and/or discretion in mind.  Once your child’s story is out there, it is out there.  Keep in mind your contact/searcher’s own agenda.  There is a lot of guanxi going back and forth in the relationship with our local contact and I will admit it is a hassle.  But that guanxi allows me to trust that our contact would do their best to help us because some day we will do the same for them.  If I could have just paid someone money, I would have gladly done it.  Instead, we are navigating the treacherous (to me) waters of guanxi.  I don’t know we might be asked to repay this debt, but odds are that we will be asked to do something.  In its own screwy way, guanxi is safer than someone who is working for money or their own agenda.

-If you are using money as an excuse for not searching, you are lying to yourself.  This search cost us next to nothing (except guanxi).  I know other people who have had success with similarly limited financial investment.  On the other hand, you might throw thousands of dollars into a search and still find nothing.  But it doesn’t have to cost much at all.  We pay for some very, very cheap translation help because I hate imposing on my Chinese-writing friends, but if I had to I could ask them to help for free.  And one of the fears that made us reluctant to search was a fear that L’s family would ask us for financial help. But that couldn’t have been further from the reality.  In fact, they gave each of our girls a red envelope for new years’ with a significant amount of money in it.  They also insisted on paying for a number of the things we did together during our meeting.  They were clearly so grateful that L was being cared for and loved they wanted to show their appreciation.

-That being said, you can’t know how you will feel after you locate the birth family until it actually happens.  Before, we thought we would bring L to China about every 3 years.  Now, I am contemplating yearly visits (probably just with L and I) so she can see her family more often.  Even that isn’t enough and I know it.  There are such complex emotions in this situation, I still have to sort them all out.   I also know we have to up the ante on her Chinese lessons.  How, I am not sure yet, but we are going to have to figure it out.  These things cost money, but I believe they are in L’s best interest.  Doing the right thing isn’t always free.

- And there is also an emotional investment that we are making in this relationship.  I am so very fortunate to have a number of people who have walked a similar path supporting us (both in searching and in reunion).  I have always ALWAYS believed that knowing her family is the right thing for L, even when I wasn’t sure that searching was my right or prerogative.  If you aren’t 100% certain your family could rise to the challenges of both searching and creating a relationship with a birth family (or dealing with negative things you might find), I wouldn’t do it.

-edited to add this one because I forgot: Don’t get hung up on trying to find ONE piece of paper.  What are the odds a police report is going to have the key?  Pretty low.  I would say probably less than 5%, if that.  Sure, maybe you want that ONE thing, whether it is an orphanage file or a police report or whatever, but assume each path is NOT the key.  Assume you need to be working on multiple angles at once.  Tearing your hair out over your inability to get one piece of paper is a waste of time.  Odds are the orphanage paperwork doesn’t have the key. It may have clues, but in MOST CASES, it won’t do more than point you in a general direction (and sometimes in the WRONG direction).  More often than not, documentation will close more paths for your than it will open.  Don’t be discouraged, the more avenues that you eliminate, the more likely you are to find the right one.

-If you are ready to search, the #1 most important thing you can do is believe that it is possible.  No matter WHAT your child’s story is, there is a possibility of success.  When you find a closed door, try another door.  And another door. And another door.  Try going big.  Try going through the back door.  Try looking in every single village nearby.  I have been collecting info since before we met L. From the minute I got her referral paperwork (before it even occurred to me to search!) I was collecting information about L and her story.  It has been FOUR YEARS of working off and on.   It could take 10 years, but you have to believe it is possible.  All it takes is making ONE CONTACT with someone who can help you or who knows one thread of the bigger story.  Ok, maybe that is too simple. In some cases you will have to pull together a number of threads to get to the truth. But if you aren’t tenacious, you will never find anyone.

I feel like I am talking myself in circles.  I can’t t share any specifics of our search, but if you have general questions, I will try to answer them.

Also, I will post some important info we learned about DNA testing, but this post is already too long.

 

Edited to add:  There is more about searching in my Open International Adoption category, over there on the right hand sidebar.