back to the family

Before the worst of Mr. A’s illness hit (and I should mention he is still sick so it is likely he has a virus or maybe giardia or something similar), we had a lovely day visiting with his Mom’s extended family.  She has a LOT of family.

MIL grew up as one of 6 sisters and 5 brothers (I think), from two wives (consecutive, I think/hope).  Her mother was the second wife, but she was somewhat close to some of her half siblings who were close to her age.

When we were in Taipei, we visited with one half brother who was totally awesome.  He was like a little Chinese leprechaun.  He was a spritely, smiley guy who is now semi-retired.  I don’t remember what his original job was, I think some kind of factory management or something, but now he works part time giving Chinese reflexology massages.  He also wore a lovely purple neckband and wristbands that he claimed had special properties because they were ionized.  He kept saying “I know it works, because Look at me!  I am 70 years old, but I look 50!”  (No, he really didn’t!)

The rest of the extended family who could make it came to a family banquet in Taichung on saturday.  MIL and Ed/Steve were there as were maybe 5 of her siblings.  Some of them were quite old.  Ooooold, old.   It was the first time Mr. A had been to Taiwan with his mom, so it was the first time he met many of them.   There was a lot of toasting and a good amount of drinking for lunch with a bunch of old people.  Some of their children and grandchildren also attended.   Despite the language barrier (mine and somewhat Mr. A’s because they spoke a lot of Taiwanese instead of mandarin), it was warm and welcoming.

The meal took a LONG time though.  According to M’s calculations, over 2 hours from when we sat down until the finished bringing us food.   The length of the meal prompted a spontaneous outburst of Chinese from M who said “Taiwanren e hen duo le!” (Taiwanese people eat a LOT!)

After that, we went with MIL and her younger brother to visit Mr. A’s maternal grandmother’s resting place.  I don’t know what else to call it. It is a big building where they keep the remains of dead people and where you can go to pay your respects.  You don’t actually pay respects at the actual remains, though.  They call up a picture of the dead person and you do your ancestor worship in front of a TV screen.

It caused a bit of a bruhaha that Mr. A was insisting on visiting his maternal grandmother, because he is only supposed to worship his paternal side.  There was much discussion with his uncle (who was the rightful heir, I guess) about whether or not it was inappropriate and if Mr. A was trying to steal extra blessings from his Amah that rightfully belonged to the uncle.  After much insisting by Mr. A, eventually, the uncle agreed to take us.

We had to take a separate cab and or cab driver accidentally took us to the wrong mausoleum.  Coincidentally, the wrong one was actually the one where Mr. A’s paternal ancestors are located.  We finally figured it out and got to the right place where MIL, uncle and aunty showed us how to use a credit card to pull up the correct file.  Then we all lit incense and prayed for good fortune and health (and I suspect from Mr. A, wealth).

It was a completely pleasant day.  Color me surprised.

bad and worse

The good news is we moved to a new hotel.

The bad news is Mr. A has food poisoning or some other kind of intestinal issue.

Obviously, that is much worse for him than for me.

It is only in the last few days that I have started to feel like this trip is going on too long.

I am ready to go home.

Priorities

I have traveled a fair amount in my 35 years.  And I consider myself to be a pretty thrifty and flexible traveler.  Taichung will go down in history as the place where I learned the limits of my flexibility and thriftiness.

We came to Taichung to see Mr. A’s extended family.  MIL and her boyfriend are staying with Mr. A’s closest uncle and we didn’t want to worry about the girls being crazy in anyone elses’ house so we decided to stay in a hotel.   Mr. A’s uncle INSISTED he could find us a better deal on a hotel than what we could find on the internet.   We went back and forth about us finding our own hotel, but eventually we stopped arguing and let his uncle make the reservation.

Big mistake.  BIG BIG mistake.

When we got to the hotel, the lobby looked…okay.  As Mr. A was checking in, I noticed a rather obvious prostitute leaving.  Then, about two minutes later, an old man with permed & dyed hair who looked strikingly like (Kim Jong Il) dropped his room key on the front desk.  Not a good omen.

When we got to our room, we knew we were in trouble.  The only lock is one of those push-button doorknob ones.  The carpet appears to be very dirty and stained indoor outdoor carpet.   The bathroom has neon purple tile with a dark red and blue floor.   It also lacks a shower curtain so the water sprays all over the room.  When flipping through the channels, Mr. A stumbled right onto a lovely scene of hardcore porn.  Overhead, we are graced with blindingly bright fluorescent lights.  And the mattresses and pillows may actually be made of concrete.  We aren’t talking about the standard hard Asian beds, we are talking solid.  With no give at all.  I had to wad up my fleece on top of the pillow so I could sleep.

I am not doing the room justice in my description, but trust me, it is really really awful.  And yucky.  The only thing it lacks is bugs.  (knock on wood)

We are really in a bind because it is unclear if we are paying for the hotel or if Mr. A’s uncle is paying.  The difference between this hotel and a much nicer hotel is $50.  $50 I would be VERY happy to spend right now.  But we don’t know if it would be really offensive/loss of face if we move.  For the time being, we are stuck here.  Probably for two more nights.

Just the other day, I was snottily saying to Mr. A that I don’t understand why people spend so much money on hotels when cheaper hotels are often perfectly serviceable.  Now I understand.  Because if you are paying $300 a night, this probably never happens to you.

Lessons learned from this experience: 1) the environment we are in has a very big impact on our enjoyment of a location, 2) sometimes spending more is totally worth it and 3) Never, EVER let Mr. A’s family control anything (even the more seemingly normal and functional family members.)

Unexpected

We went to the flower show yesterday.  Surprise, surprise, it was lame.  And there weren’t many flowers there.  And I learned that MIL’s weird boyfriend is a close talker.   And creepy, but I already knew that.

I wish I had something funnier to write, but MIL has been on her best behavior.  When she really drives me crazy, it is usually because she is acting on what I suspect is undiagnosed OCD and gets “stuck” on something about me or Mr. A or the kids.  I don’t know if it is the fact that we are around other people here or what, but she isn’t stuck and she is pretty much acting like a totally normal person.

Ok, that isn’t entirely true.  She has repeatedly forced us to change our itinerary to accommodate her weirdo boyfriend who doesn’t want her to do family stuff while he is here, which WTF?  Why would MIL come to Taiwan if not to do family stuff?  There are tombs to be swept and banquets to eat and relatives to visit.

In the past, we only thought that Ed/Steve was just a little odd.  I mean, to date MIL, you *have* to be odd, right?  This trip, we have had the opportunity to see that not only is he odd, he is volatile too.  Lovely.

The other night, we went out to dinner with Mr. A’s uncle & cousins and with MIL and Ed/Steve. Ed/Steve left a book at the restaurant when we walked to the Taipei Lantern Festival.  When he realized he left it there, he totally flipped out.  MIL was walking with him and holding M’s hand when he started yelling and flailing and cursing and stomping.  When I saw what was happening, I swooped in and ushered M out of there and sent MIL back with Ed/Steve to get it because MIL seemed paralyzed with indecision (go with uncle or go with Ed/Steve?)

He apparently also flipped out and raged the next day when MIL got lost coming home from museum.  (Seriously, there is no surprise that MIL would get lost.  She is generally very unobservant.  Apparently she ended up knocking on the windows of nearby houses for two hours until they found the right house.)  While MIL getting lost is obviously annoying, Ed/Steve apparently flipped the eff out.

Now we are all tiptoeing around Ed/Steve trying to keep him happy. *sigh*

MIL has now made us change our itinerary three different times as she tries to appease Ed/Steve.  If it were just Mr. A and I, changing plans wouldn’t be a big deal, but with the kids it sucks.  Also, due to Ed/Steve, MIL’s itinerary now appears to be Taipei- Taichung- Taipei – Taichung – Taipei which is stupid.  She seems to think this would be an ok thing for us to do too.  Because we have nothing better to do than drag the kids and all our luggage back and forth and back and forth.   But we changed our plans anyway to be accomodating, mostly because we feel bad for MIL because she has to deal with Ed/Steve.

It is annoying, but not as annoying as we expected spending so much time with MIL to bed.   Weird.

taiwan telegram

we are in taiwan (stop)

my MIL is also here (stop)

saw MIL today (stop)

possibly the most pleasant interaction in our 15 year history (stop)

her boyfriend is a weirdo and possibly slightly unhinged (stop)

MIL looks v functional in comparison (stop)

boggles the mind but true (stop)

i have agreed to attend the flower show on Wednesday (stop)

without liquor even  (stop)

proving i am a lover not a fighter (stop)

there will be flowers (stop)

there will be ancestor worship in a highrise crematorium (stop)

there will be bubble tea (stop)

for providing this reading pleasure please send send thank you gifts of beer and chocolate to the taipei ymca hotel (stop)