Nablopomo Questions -Day 1- China Travel

I am just going to dive in and start answering the questions you all sent me for Nablopomo.  I will try to post for 30 days straight, but possibly that means I can be done before Thanksgiving.

Here we go (in no particular order):

Anne asks:

We are planning a return trip to China this spring but do not want to go as part of a tour because the kids would probably hate China if we got on a bus at the crack of dawn, went sight-seeing and shopping for the whole day, and returned at nightfall. Is it reasonable to think we can go without guides? Our Chinese is limited. If we wanted to use a guide for a couple of days in a certain city, any ideas on how to connect with one?

I think the question is really dependent on what kind of travelers you are.  Have you traveled extensively outside the the US?  Do you speak any Chinese at all?  Where do you hope to go?   If you are traveling only in Beijing and Shanghai or to very tourist-heavy locations (Guilin or Xian for example), you will probably be fine.  If you are going to any 2nd or 3rd tier city without any experience traveling in developing countries with no knowledge of Chinese, it could very well be a complete nightmare.

Traveling in China with kids is not for the faint of heart.  My kids are great travelers, Mr. A speaks passable Chinese (and I understand quite a bit) and we have both traveled in China before (including Mr. A living there for a year).  But let me assure you, there were days where I thought we were going to kill each other or throw in the towel due to the stress of trying to do the following:

  • Manage the hotel- check in, figure out how to use the internet, explain that the internet is not working, figure out if the bill was correct, make sure our credit cards were not overcharged, make sure the cleaning people did not steal our stuff, figure out how to do laundry, make the TV work, get fresh towels, discover your carefully chosen hotel sucks and find a new one.
  • Get to where we wanted to go in a timely manner- find a taxi if there isn’t one outside the hotel, communicate to the taxi driver where you want to go, find a taxi when you come out of the destination, explain how to get to your hotel, try not to die of asphyxiation from the taxi driver’s cigarettes,  argue with/negotiate with the taxi driver over the price, find the subway station, figure out how to get over the one way streets and overpasses to get to your destination when you come out the subway exit, talk to the subway attendant about buying tickets, figuring out where the closest subway is, figure out why the subway you want is not coming, shove your way into the subway without losing the children, figure out how to buy tickets to shows you want to see, figure out wtf that thing is in the Forbidden City, figure out that you actually exited at the wrong end of the forbidden city and can not find a taxi/subway/place to eat, fend off thousands of hawkers while you try to read your map, realize the map from one year ago is hopelessly outdated due to the pace of construction in China, get scammed by guys who tell you the wrong information so they can force you to pay extra for their bus, manage the nightmare chaos at the small airport for your intercountry flight, try to buy train tickets during Chinese Spring Festival (aka the greatest annual human migration in the world).
  • Figure out what stuff is worth seeing-  spend days and days looking at guidebooks and online to figure out what things you should see, try those things to discover the kids are bored silly (Forbidden City, Tiananmen square, etc), revise plans to try to find more kid-friendly activities, realize that “kid friendly” could mean that you are looking at pickled fetuses and corpses
  • Food- (Despite all the problems above, food was by far our biggest challenge in the PRC) Keep enough food in your room so you can eat breakfast without needing to find a restaurant when you are jetlagged, figure out what things at 7-11 you are willing to eat, make sure your hotel is ALWAYS near a 7-11, make sure you stop sightseeing at least an hour before you want to eat so you have enough time to locate a restaurant, figure out how to order when you can’t read the menu, carry enough snacks for the kids in case there is no restaurant anywhere near where you are sightseeing,  learn that the only food that is easily accessible to you is unappealing,  get food poisoning at least once due to eating at a sketchy restaurant and/or street vendor, get screamed at in Chinese for not understanding the order/get a ticket/turn it in when your food comes system and you lost the ticket, spend hours walking around the trying to locate the restaurant you saw yesterday that looked good, try to order only to have the vendor turn their back on you because they don’t want to deal with trying to figure out what you want, get stuck at a sightseeing place where there are inexplicably no options to buy food, listen to the kids whine about how much they hate all the food, watch a kid who previously ate anything and everything refuse to eat anything but white rice, watch the other kid insist only on eating candy for five days.
All these things happened to us during the three weeks we were in China, despite our serious backpacking and traveling with kids experience (not to mention Chinese language skills!).
If we weren’t so damn independent (read: STUPID) and cheap, we would have hired a guide or done some touring with a group.  Traveling on your own in China with kids is REALLY REALLY HARD.   It was hard on us, our relationship (during that time…we are fine now), and especially the kids.  They would have had a much better time if we were with a group that included other children they could play (and complain!) with.
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Also, the idea of waking up in a nice, clean hotel where breakfast is provided, getting on a lovely bus (with no haggling or cigarette smoke) and going directly to a sight-seeing place, getting back on the bus to go to a pre-screened restaurant where a variety of totally edible lunch items are already waiting?  Wow, I can’t even imagine how much less stress that would have been.
That being said, I am a backpacker at heart.  I love stumbling around a slum we found accidentally and eating street vendor food that will likely give us all dysentery. I like interacting with normal people, even if they stare and make rude comments about us.
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Despite all that unpleasantness (and it really, really was QUITE UNPLEASANT a lot of the time), I would do it on our own again because those unpleasant things make the best stories.
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It really depends on what you want out of your trip.
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As for finding a guide, I would try googling the crap out of “Location in China, Guide, english-speaking”.  Then, cross reference everything you find with Trip Advisor.  I found Trip Advisor to be extremely reliable for almost everything we looked up in China.
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Good luck Anna! (And if Anna has more specific questions about China travel, shoot me an email and I will give you more detail privately).

West Virginia Redemption

After over four years driving through West Virginia to visit my friend in North Carolina, I finally found something worth stopping for there.

I stopped for at the Tamarack, which is a showcase of West Virginia handicrafts.  I stopped because I had to pee, but I decided to grab dinner too.  Who knew that the little cafeteria there was operated by the Greenbrier?

On the first swing through WV, I had Swiss steak, kale greens and the best okra I have ever had in my life.  GREENS!  At a restaurant beside a highway!  The whole meal cost less than $10 and it was delicious.  On the way back, I had amazing Cajun catfish, collard greens and fried green tomatoes.   I have never had fried green tomatoes before, but oh my, they were phenomenal.  Everything there was amazing.

Of course, the irony of all of this is the cause of my trip.  I went down to testify in my friend’s custody hearing in which she requested court approval to move out of North Carolina.  She got that permission, so it is unlikely I will be driving through WV very often.

Isn’t that just my luck?

sparkly

Today is a banner day.  After one entire year of living in this house, we are finally going to have a sparkly new dishwasher installed.  This house has never even had any dishwasher at all before.

Hallelujah! Amen!

Actually, the dishwasher won’t do much for me besides filling the gaping hole we have had in the cabinets for the past 4 months.  Mr. A does the vast majority of the dishes, so he will be happy.   I might even try to get in the habit of putting my own dishes directly in the dishwasher instead of piling them next to the sink.  I am sure Mr. A would appreciate that.  (Shut up! It is the division of labor we worked out.  I don’t see him washing his own damn underwear just because he is capable.)

Let’s all knock on wood that the dishwasher will be installed without any issues.  I am a bit nervous that they will say the hole is the wrong size or the drain hole is in the wrong place or something.  Cross your fingers.

If the dishwasher goes in ok, and if I can find the time to finish painting the cabinets and touching up all the giant fucking gouges in the trim from the tile guys minor scuffs in the paint, the kitchen should be done in another week and a half.

Can I get another HALLELUJAH?

It would be done even sooner, but I am driving through the sixth circle of hell the beautiful mountains of West Virginia* to  live out my lifelong dream of being on the witness stand without a fear of going to jail testify in a friend’s custody hearing and to see a gorgeous new baby.

In the meantime, I am really enjoying reading your questions.  I am not going to start answering them until Nablopomo in Novemeber, but I am thinking about them nevertheless.  Please feel free to keep them coming.

 

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*I do believe the WV turnpike was designed by sadists.  No cell reception, no where to stop, super-steep mountains and stomach-turning curves.  And it is LONG.  Four hours through WV is enough to make me want to pay the extra $200 to just fly already.