Fuli pictures

Fuli is a little town near Yangshuo that is well known for painted fans and scrolls.  We weren’t really interested in buying scrolls or fans, but it was an interesting half day trip.  Seeing life in a smaller Chinese town was much more interesting than the fans.

Bike-cart in an out of the way alley

Gate into the courtyard of a house

Oxen (cows?) grazing while people clean vegetables in the river.

More vegetable washing in the river.

The girls next to a cool alley doorway.

The Revolution lives on in a local school courtyard.

Fans waiting to be painted.

Oops Yangshuo Did It Again…

When we were in China for L’s adoption, M, Mr. A and I traveled to Yangshuo Guangxi.   It is so very beautiful, I had high hopes for it being my favorite place in China.  Sadly, the very opposite was true.

I thought we should try it again because I was jetlagged and culture shocking in a bad way on that trip.  But wouldn’t you know, so far, things are a bit disastrous this time too.

The biggest problem is the choice I made for our hotel.  I thought the problem the last time was due to the noise and crowds in the town of Yangshuo and this could be rectified by staying outside the town.  So we found a rural hotel with amazing views, but still close-ish on the map.

Unfortunately, rural means no taxies and  close-ish on the map means a 30 minute walk to a sketchy looking ferry across the river, then another 15 minutes walking to town.  L only has about 3 hours of walking in her each day (which is a lot for a 4 year old, I think) and to waste 45 of those minutes just seems like a bad idea.   I should also mention the road we walk down is very muddy and manure-y, which isn’t such a problem on a dry day, but we are scheduled for rain.  We would basically be housebound.

It was a strategic miscalculation.  If it were just Mr. A and myself, it would be fine.  With M, it would be difficult.  With L, it is not workable.

Mr. A is out finding a new hotel for us right now, so tonight we will move.  It really sucks because the staff at this hotel are all incredibly nice.

Pictures in a later post because Mr. A has the camera in his bag.

Shanghai House of Horrors

This morning, we made our way down to the Bund. It is about a 4 blocks from our hotel. It was a nice walk, but it is snowing and wet. It turns out that cloudy, snowy & wet feels colder than 10 degrees cooler but sunny and dry. So this afternoon we decided to go to something inside near our apartment hotel.

The Bund is full of fancy stores and nice early 1900s architecture.

We decided to visit the place we now call the Shanghai House of Horrors (aka The Shanghai Museum of Natural History) because it was only a block and a half away.

Remember when I said the Beijing Science & Technology museum was a little different from an American museum? Well, I didn’t know what the heck I was talking about. Todays museum was MUCH MUCH weirder.

To set the stage, there were signs every 10 feet saying “NO RUNNING AND SHOUTING” and yet there were hundreds (if not THOUSANDS) of kids running and screaming through every inch of the museum. It was also practically unheated (there were a few useless space heaters). I saw a thermometer that said 50 degrees. It wasn’t much warmer inside than it was outside. The paint was peeling like crazy and the whole place was in a sad state of disrepair.

It started off innocently enough with dinosaurs. Of course, we had to understand they weren’t just any dinosaurs, they were Chinese dinosaurs. A guide followed me around and told me which province each one came from repeatedly. Clearly, this museum wasn’t just about natural history, it was about Nationalistic Pride.

Then we went into another section where we were greeted with this lovely display:

Real live (Ok, not exactly alive. They were definitely dead) baby fetuses. Six of them demonstrating each of the first 6 months in the womb, I think. Now, I have loved the Mutter Museum where there is a ton of weird and gross stuff, but this was still a little bit yucky to me.

Even better (or worse), was when we entered the area with a display about human races. Apparently, according to this museum, there are three: Asian, Caucasoid and African (Where are the Native north & south Americans in this trichotomy? This is unclear.). I couldn’t read most of the descriptions of what was presented, but we drew some conclusions about them based on the displays.

For example, look at this serene Asian couple. She is carrying a vase for modesty. They look quite civilized. (Unfortunately for the man, his groin region was sporting a very small member in the middle of a mess o’ pressed-in-clay fingerprints. I noticed this because every child who walked by studied it closely. I might also add that if this was supposed to be a racial representation, it didn’t do much to dispute the Asian small penis stereotype.)

Mr. A hangs with his people.

The Caucasoid people were represented by some fine, refined, Grecian specimens. (And because I am really a 13 year old boy, I couldn’t help but laugh and imagine it saying Cock-asoids because of the white guy’s on-display member.)

M with a white guy and his thing.

Then there was the display of Africans. I can’t put my finger on it exactly, but there is just something very wrong about the selected poses. They guy is playing a drum (member covered completely, probably due to Chinese inferiority complex) and the woman shaking everything, presumably dancing. I think she has a loincloth on.


A weird diagram of racial categories of noses, nose holes and head shapes.

Anyone who has spent much time in China (heck, I have hardly been here at all and even I have been able to figure this out!) knows that there is a pretty clear undercurrent of racism/Chinese superiority in the culture. But seeing on display was like being transported back to the pre-civil rights days. There were many other displays that had subtle and not so subtle indications of exactly who was superior (Asians then whites and Africans clearly at the bottom — practically monkeys!)

It was just so very weird. And wrong.

I am guessing that someone has previously pointed out the inaccuracies of these exhibits because there is a sign explaining they were designed in 1972 and 1975. Due to limitations of “time, ability, and financial capacity”, the exhibits “might have many shortcomings.”

Uh, you think?

The other exhibits were horrifying in a completely different way. There were many stuffed and pickled specimens that have definitely seen better days. There was an overwhelming smell of preservatives that made both Mr. A and my stomaches hurt.

We called these guys the Zombie Seals. The dusty eyeballs on the animals didn’t help their appeal much.


I don’t know what this is, but it was clearly rabid or something.

I couldn’t get a picture of the stuffed panda, because there was a mass of school kids blocking it while a guide told them about how special it was and how it was clearly the most evolved of all bears. (Just kidding, I don’t know for sure that is what he was saying, but I suspect it is true.)

I didn’t take any pictures of the pickled amphibians, repiles and fish, but they were so so gross. They were all white-ish and floating in some kind of liquid that had other stuff floating/growing in it too. Blech.

Last but not least, there were two human mummies. They were off by themselves and no one told me I couldn’t flash a picture right in their mummy faces, so I did.


Yuck.


Shhh. This is a Chinese mummy, but it has black skin. Don’t tell the Chinese!

We left feeling physically ill and kind of scandalized. M was quite freaked out by the dead fetuses and the mummies. Mr. A and I found the jars of dead animals to be overwhelmingly gross and the stuffed ones so creepy and disgusting I can’t really describe it without reliving the trauma.

So if you are in Shanghai, mark this museum off your list. You will thank me if you don’t ever visit it.


Day One: The Suffering.

Oh jetlag.  You are not my friend.

Actually, I am surviving the jetlag ok, but L is a wreck.  On the plane, she kept waking up and sobbing, saying “I miss my Hooooommmmee!”   When she is not half asleep, she is actually super pleasant.  The flight attendants and two other passengers complimented the girls on the lovely manners and willingness to behave.

We really like our hotel.  It is a little worn around the edges, but it is a huge suite.  There are two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living area, a kitchenette and an office/loft.  It is a perfect place for the jet lag.  There are rooms we can go in to nap and rooms we can be in if we are awake at odd hours. For the bargain price of about $115  a night, I can deal with some grimy grout. (Seriously, I have never seen clean grout or caulk in China.  They should just figure out a new building technique, because it is inevitably a little icky here.)

This morning, we managed to get everyone up and out the door by 8:00am.   We are trying to overcome the jetlag with sunshine and we lucked out today.  It is bright and sunny, though it is very very cold out (-6C, whatever that translates to in F.  COLD.)   We walked about 15 minutes from our hotel (which is somewhat near the silk market) to the subway. It was crammed with people, but we made it to Tia.nanmen Square without incident.

Here we are, cold but pleased to be out and about.

The security around the Square is crazy.  I think we walked through four different security checkpoints in the hour we were there. At each one, our bag was X-rayed.

It is also kind of surreal to be back in Beijing.  Mr. A and I visited it in winter of 1995-96.  Things are so very different now.  Things are so clean and modern.  The Square was absolutely immaculate.  We took a moment to have a very Chinese snack of Mexican Tomato Chicken Flavor potato chips.  They tasted suspiciously like normal American BBQ flavor to me.

Immediately following that, more suffering began as we couldn’t find a cab.  There was some shenanigans about not being allowed to pick us up by the Square (or at least that was our (mis?) understanding of the situation).  We walked and walked an finally found one that brought us back to our hotel.

We are getting ready to check out a hot pot restaurant down the street, then we will send everyone to take a nap.  I don’t know what we will do later this afternoon, but we will do more sightseeing tomorrow.

Merry Christmas!

Be careful what you wish for.